The high performance piston and compression valving design was developed through hours of testing, on Cogent's in house shock dyno.
Dale has done extensive road testing and adjustment settings allowing Cogent to make the proper changes to complete the finished package. The end result is a great performing, very high quality long life shock that sucks up the bumps, and keeps the back end nice and planted. The stock shock works surprisingly well, even with the now 20k miles on it. The shock has a bit too much high speed compression damping, but works surprisingly well once properly tuned in.
The stock forks and damping are crap. Replace the springs with straight wound proper rate Racetech. Even if you are small replace the springs. Perhaps someone else has done so, but my searches turned up nothing. The only difference is removing the bolt that holds the shims in the stock valve body, which is done with an allen wrench.
I wanted more airspring, but it may be too much. I plan to drop to mm as Racetech recommends and compare. Stock, my had different stacks in each fork. Included is what shims to reassemble with. Also included are the before and after shim stacks for the Gen 1 I tried to get the table to show correctly but gave up : Gen3 Right Side of Shims OD x Thickness Stock 3 17mm x 0.
Last edited: Nov 11, The great thing about this info is not just the data, but the context. Much appreciated! For example, I keep hearing how heavy the stock exhaust system is, but the NET weight loss after you put the aftermarket stuff back on rarely gets posted. The Suzuki parts fiche does not seem to distinguish.
Last edited: Sep 5, I also found the Gold Valves a waste of money for the type riding my old body does. Softening the stockers and 5 wt oil would have of done just a good I'm thinking. As for the rear shock, still the same stock one with over 80K miles on it. Keep thinking I'll go to a Busa shock but has not happened yet.
I can always build new links for the ride height adjustment. I guess I'm just an old fart that doesn't know any better, but I'm perfectly happy with the stock suspension as is I'm 64 yrs. I must be missing out on a lot Horses for courses, Rob.
Some people enjoy the upgrade process itself. It's not necessarily that they can't tolerate the stock bike. Mine's all stock too, but with over 30k miles now I figure I may have to refresh the suspenders sooner or later And I thought I wanted a slip-on can In general, the seems to be a textbook UJM: does a lot out of the box, yet is relatively understressed so there's loads of upgrade potential.
Dances - no, both are for compression, located at the bottom of each cartridge tube. R valve assembly and blocked them off with appropriate heater-hose, the dodgy bolt in the end and hose clamps.
Taped off the solenoid outlets and left plugged in and cable-tied to frame. Also blocked off the outlet from the air-box. Removed the secondary butterflies.
Dare say a butane torch-type soldering iron would get more heat in and quicker. Also bought a brand new mini phillips screwdriver, as not wanting to round out the screw-heads. Fitted a 46 tooth rear sprocket and it still provides the ability to adjust the chain. Even though it has been mentioned that there is no particular HP advantage with removal of the pair valve it has smoothed out deceleration to the point of no popping what so ever.
Very smooth indeed. And as far as better pick-up and top-end speed, power delivery is a little stronger but good in not being break-neck type. This is still with the PC3 settings un-adjusted from the first tune. Am currently looking into Supertrapp mufflers. Will re-tune on the dyno once the yay-nay decision on the exhaust. Not bad for an "old man's" bike P. S Check out a site called Two Wheeled Texans. Just like this site and has a dedicated Bandit sub-thread section.
There is a good touring screen mentioned on there, amongst other things, just can't rememeber the name. Last edited by ohmyfj55 ; , PM. Tags: None. I dropped a tooth on the front instead of adding to the back.
Makes the bikes bottom end work well. When the bike goes for it's 24K service the secondaries are getting removed too. Will be tossing the PAIR system as well. I have a speedohealer on my bike, it now stops around the kph mark, not that you ever really get to ride at that speed for extended period s of time though. I'm on Two wheeled texans with the same username btw.
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